15

RISTORANTE CRACCO
CHEF: Carlos Cracco
4 Victor Hugo, Milan
Michelin Stars: 2**

Even if you’re not a foodie, you probably saw CARLOS CRACCO’S handiwork in the Oscar nominated movie I Am Love. Chef Cracco’s progressive cuisine is hugely popular in Milan and his cooking is considered to be on the level of culinary genius which explains RISTORANTE CRACCO’S consistent rating of two Michelin stars.

On a recent trip to Milan, I was able to finally secure a reservation at Cracco, on a busy Friday night. The minimalist restaurant was packed, but service proved flawless from start to finish, attentive without feeling intrusive. We ordered the tasting menu without beef or pork to experience Chef Cracco’s most revered dishes and while some dishes were complex and texturally creative, others like dried vegetable + fruit at the beginning and end of the meal felt redundant and less inspired. Also, the substitutions for the veal heart and pigeon courses were down right boring. Steamed shrimp? Seriously? A dish clearly not worthy of two Michelin stars.

It’s clear that Chef Cracco has an inventive streak and has elevated Italian cuisine beyond rustic cooking, but more diversity in ingredients for non-meat eaters and elevated flavor profiles overall are much needed upgrades moving forward.

Dehydrated Vegetable Chips
More Dehydrated Chips: Shiso Leaf + Zucchini Blossom + Shrimp
Savory Canapes
Sea Urchin with Moscata d’Asti
Caramelized Russian Salad
(vegetables + egg + mayonnaise caramelized into a crunchy wafers)
Olive Oil Creme Brulee + Vanilla + Sea Snails
Steamed Chicken Egg + Rhubarb + White Asparagus + Pink Pepper
Marinated Egg Yolk Spaghetti + Tomatoes + Anchovies
Steamed Shrimp + Potato + Greens
Risotto + Miso + Red Mullet + Green Tea
Petit Fours
Dehydrated Fruit Chips: Apple + Pear + Pineapple + Orange